HA-LIX, the World’s last airworthy Li-2, regularly offers enthusiasts the chance to fly from Budaors airfield on weekends between Spring and Autumn. Having seen the Li-2 in Britain in 2019, I took the opportunity to check-out the old airliner one Friday in August 2024. The Budaors airfield, originally Budapest’s civil airport, is just a short bus ride from the centre of Hungary’s capital. I found HA-LIX parked on the apron behind the stylish art deco terminal building, the engines neatly protected by blue covers as this was not a flying weekend. Between the terminal and the historic MEM maintenance hangar there was also the nose section of ex-Malev Li-2 HA-LIU, parts of which had been used in the restoration of HA-LIX. There was also a selection of An-2s and other old-timers parked outside on the grass.
Inspired by my visit to Budaors, I booked a return visit for September 21st when HA-LIX was due to fly on the 23rd anniversary of the first post-renovation flight. Despite extensive flooding along the banks of the Danube, the Saturday morning dawned warm and clear. Disembarking Budapest’s excellent Metro system at Kelenfold, I boarded the #71 bus for the ten minute ride to the old Budaors terminal.
The Li-2 was being prepared for flight by the Goldtimer ground crew. The engine covers had been removed, the reception team were preparing to check-in the first passengers and a couple of biplanes, also operated by Goldtimer, were warming-up ready for flight. Soon, brave pilots and their intrepid passengers were enjoying the open cockpit excitement of the Po-2 and Gerle biplanes as they clattered skywards. Another colourful antique taking to the air was the Fiesler Storch look-alike, Rubik R-18 HA-RUF, designed by the father of the Rubik cube inventor.
Meanwhile, the Li-2 pilots had taken their seats in the cockpit and the ground crew were rotating the propellers by hand to work some lubricant through the ASH 62IR radials. Drip trays were removed and the battery cart connected to fire-up the first engine. The first group of around twenty passengers was embarked and the radial engines coaxed into life in succession with the trademark clouds of blue smoke.
Pre-flight checks complete and chocks removed, the Li-2 turns to starboard and taxis out towards the grass strip. The energetic prop wash from the two radials generates a flurry of loose grit and pebbles from the tarmac apron which sandblasts unwary spectators. HA-LIX will be operating a series of 15 minute and 30 minute flights during Saturday morning, cruising out along the Danube and the suburbs of Budapest.
My flight slot is at 11:15 and I duly check-in to receive my boarding pass and await the return of the Li-2. The autumn temperature is increasing pleasantly as the old airliner passes over the airfield margins on the downwind leg. Turning to starboard, HA-LIX lands smoothly and taxis back to the apron.
The disembarking passengers pause to snap photos and ‘selfies’ in front of the Lisunov while we are led-out by a smart Malev-liveried attendant. Boarding via the renowned starboard passenger door, the comfortable two-plus-one seating and the inclined floor serves as a reminder how conditioned airliner passengers have become to Boeing 737 and Airbus cabins.
While the cockpit team run through their checks, one of the volunteers confirms that we are all strapped-in and gives a short safety briefing. The engines burst into life with the customary blue exhaust smoke and we are on our way, trundling out to the end of the strip. Our passage across the grass affords a good view of the parked An-2s, ancient helicopters, military vehicles and the other Goldtimer aircraft flying this weekend.
The take-off run is surprisingly smooth along the grass strip and we are soon airborne. The ASH62IR engines certainly have a different note to Pratt & Whitney Twin Wasps but they give the impression of smoothly pulling the Li-2 skywards as we rise above Budaors, cross the boundary road and head towards Budapest and the Danube.
The cabin attendant maintains a steady commentary for our benefit: unfortunately, my lack of Hungarian doesn’t help, but my fellow passengers are certainly appreciative! The Li-2 cruises smoothly northwards along the line of the flooded Danube, passing the centre of Budapest and Margaret Island on our starboard side. As we reach the northern suburbs, the pilots make a starboard turn and we cross the river heading for the airstrip at Dunakeszi where the gliding club is also making the most of the lovely September weather. The strip is busy with a colourful scattering of gliders and we make a moderately low pass along the runway before making a 180 and running back across the airfield. HA-LIX is a frequent visitor to this picturesque grass airstrip but today we climb away across the Danube again and head north over the forested hills on the western side of the river.
The landscape of Pest County offers plenty of interest for photographers as we wind our way north along above the swollen Danube. The aircrew generously allow brief visits to the area to the aft of the cockpit. The old radio rack area has been modified and can now accommodate galley equipment if required. There is also an extra ‘crew chief’ seat behind the Captain’s position which offers a good view ahead into the cockpit and port and starboard through the ‘extra’ side windows which are fitted to an Li-2 but not a C-47. Today, the seat is occupied by Peter Krauth, an ex-Malev veteran and long-time pilot of HA-LIX.
All too soon we are back over Budaors, completing the downwind leg and base leg before turning to starboard onto the final approach over the car park of the suburb’s huge Tesco store. Touch-down is as smooth as the rest of the flight and the Li-2 taxies back to the airport apron across the grass after a very generous thirty minutes in the air. All that remains is a round of disembarkation photos….and an Li-2 cookie each!
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